Another glorious day! Reading, chatting, cappuccino at home in the morning, a visit to Fumagalli for another cappuccino and to pick up bread, back to Poggio Verde for reading, writing, a couple loads of laundry, lunch of salad, bresaola, ham, cheese, fruit. Lots of great chatting, walked up to the tennis/soccer court, decided Pickleball is in PV’s future (or should be). Dinner of pasta, zucchini, red peppers, salad, fruit.
Sept 26, 2014 – Arrival
Flights – great conv with young Spirit engineer re: Wichita and #fuelthefireICT on flight to Chicago. Easy transition to flight to Frankfurt (nice walk, actually!).
Tempted by harmonicas in Frankfurt airport (for Martha) but resisted. Not sure how G & K would’ve taken that… 🙂 Maybe it would’ve been perfect for Oktoberfest though, come to think of it…
I had fussed to Mark a bit about having to do the flight from Frankfurt to Milan at what would’ve been 3 in the morning US time (I preferred to do two legs in the US and then one over to Milan rather than one leg in US and over, then another leg in Europe to Milan. HOWEVER, I take it all back. It’s a stunning 40-minute flight over the Alps and despite some serious sleeplessness I couldn’t possibly fall asleep – it was so, so beautiful!
Late departure out of Frankfurt so not sure I would catch the trains to be able to connect with Gretchen in Milan. Made my way as fast as I could without actually running toward the train into Milan (12 euros). Credit card doesn’t work in the machine (US cards don’t have a chip yet) so had to stand in line. Asked when next train was and the guy said 2 minutes so I booked it down to the platform, got on, sat down and the doors closed. SO grateful! (I must say this is a change from 39 years ago on my first trip to Italy when the train times were considerably more fluid… we were so amazed in Switzerland when the trains started moving at the moment the secondhand hit the 12).
(NB For train to Garibaldi, choose “Milano Centrale” in the machine. Stops at Garibaldi just before Staz. Centrale)
I walked out of the train station and Gretchen was there with a nice hug, some instructions, some keys and a couple of other small things for the house. We had a nice little 5-minute chat (she and Luigi were off to Brussels for a wedding) then I went back inside the station to get my ticket.
I had enough cash (3.70 euros) so was able to get a ticket for Cernusco-Merate from Trenord machine. I caught the 3:22 train, as I had hoped in order to meet Cary and Susan Humphries, who were arriving from Venice. I arrived at 3:59 as advertised. They drove up about 15 minutes later – perfect, and remarkable considering they had driven from Venice! We set the GPS to take us to Monticello so we could get provisions at Rex Market but it (“James”) took us on a circuitous route to a different Monticello further north. Had a bit of a tour but we made it. Provisions to begin: prosicutto cotto, songino (mache), arugula, zucchini, onions, milk, cream, pasta, grissini (bread sticks), gorgonzola dolce, parmiggiano reggiano, wine, fruit.
Unpacked, unloaded groceries, began opening up shutters (there are lots of wonderful windows), then took a walk around Poggio Verde.
Walked around a bit, made dinner, chatted, bed.
Change is Afoot
![]() |
| Everyone in the neighborhood has chairs in front. |
Such a lot of change in the life of our family. Lauren and William moved from Virginia to Cleveland last week, Katharine and George are finishing up their first berry-picking season together and getting ready for the Wee Elder to arrive at the end of August, things are adjusting for Mark, and I am thinking about my schedule for the fall. And today Mark’s parents and I visited Larksfield Place.
![]() |
| Wonderful dinner, per usual. New table and chairs! |
The details are great fun, though: I spent a few days last week in Cleveland helping Lauren and William get moved into their rental house. (They were kind enough to make me feel like I helped, anyway… I felt like I did a little more cheerleading while Lauren did most of the work – that girl doesn’t stop moving very often!) We had a couple wonderful meals out (lunch at the Flying Pig and dinner at Paladar) and a couple of wonderful meals in (her famous squash pasta and a new Pasta Primavera from Frank Skitt’s cookbook), a trip to the West Side Market downtown, visits to their new schools (University School for William, Ruffing Montessori for Lauren), and a walk around their delightful new Fernway neighborhood.
![]() |
| George’s and Katharine’s blackberry fence and veg garden |
I can’t get back into my new room at Coleman Middle School (where I’ve coordinated tutoring and mentoring for almost 20 years) for two weeks and Katharine is headed to Minnesota the last two weeks in July so it occurred to me it might be fun to offer some focused help with garden, house and whatever needs to be done to prepare for the arrival of the Wee Elder. The first order of business was the taming of the garden, which has grown a bit more than Katharine had expected. She took care of errant tomato branches while I cut back some weeds, sprayed a 20% vinegar solution on some of the bermuda and covered one of the paths between the raised beds with black paper and mulch. My hair was full of tiny burrs at the end of it all and Katharine had to take a brush to it and pick, pick, pick out the little guys. I spent the 20-minute drive home pulling the burrs out of my top and tossing them out the window to sprout along the roadside.
![]() |
| Picking blackberries |
George and Katharine have done a terrific job keeping up with the raspberries and blackberries and using social media to let folks know when and where they are being sold, etc. They’ve also hosted You-Picks every Saturday in June (photos and videos at www.eldersliefarm.com). I didn’t know what to expect the first time I went and was delighted to see that not only was it possible to go pick berries, but Katharine had prepared scones and mini-blackberry cobblers, Phil (George’s dad) had picked up some very tasty coffee, and they had a wonderful set-up in the old carport. I made some gelato and sorbet to contribute to the effort, which came out quite nicely if I do say so myself. The whole thing was awesome. Last week (June 30th) it was too hot to do much picking but they still had the baked goods, and a few people were able to go picking. I’d go up there just for breakfast on Saturdays as long as they care to keep hosting us.
Must decide what I want to be called, and soon. “Grandma” is not on the list of options. Mark will be Papi, like the Italian cousins call their dad – very approachable and friendly and endearing… would love to figure out something along those lines.
Notes on Traveling
I named my blog “Chard, etc.” so I would have the option of writing not only about simple, tasty preparation of readily-available, healthy and interesting ingredients (“chard”), but also about anything else that might come to mind (“etc.”). Having just returned from a particularly enjoyable two weeks in France, the first in Provence and the second in Paris, I feel compelled to write a post that fits the “etc.” part of the blog title.
Travel with Friends and/or Family
Mark and I have had the great good fortune of finding a lifelong travel companion in the form of a dear friend from high school. We have made several trips together over the years, and our travels have been made all the richer by sharing experiences with her. Terri is not as delighted by food and wine as we are but she fully supports our interest. We are not as taken by antiques and shopping as she is, but we enjoy engaging with her in her pursuit of beautiful and/or quirky old things, and her appreciation of interior decorating. She is an attorney, Mark is a physician and I recruit and train volunteers to tutor and mentor middle schoolers so there is always something to learn about each others’ vocations. Other common topics of conversation include children, politics and religion; we are generally on the same page politically and have a common-enough background theologically that discussions on those topics don’t ignite sparks but neither are they boring. Maybe our most important common interest is the love of learning and the pursuit of new experiences.
We are also fortunate to enjoy traveling with our siblings. Times spent together in Colorado, Oregon, North Carolina, New York City and at each other’s homes in Omaha, Milan and Bend, Oregon have been rich, and always include cooking together and enjoying extended times of conversation and exploration of whatever area we find ourselves in. Since we are in our 50’s, our conversations frequently include a good number of stories of past travels as well as recent cooking or dining out adventures, books or articles read or movies watched, etc.
We made the choice early to cut back wherever needed (furniture and home items, eating out, drive-throughs for drinks, etc.) so we could afford to travel as a family and we have not regretted it. The memories we have of traveling with our daughters, beginning when their ages were measured in months, are truly priceless. Seeing things through a child’s eyes, even if we’d seen it ourselves several times before, makes things new and interesting all over again. The bonding that happens in a family through going on a new adventure together, and weathering the joys and challenges encountered, is most decidedly worth the effort and expense. When Mark was between residency and fellowship we took Lauren (then 2 years old) with us to Europe; that time of daddy-daughter bonding absolutely would not have happened otherwise during his medical training. Our daughters have now married, and our time together last summer in Estes Park and this spring in Breckenridge with an equal number of boys and girls at the table (and hiking, climbing, etc.) was particularly thrilling for Mark, who has been outnumbered for so long. What a wonderful way to get to know our new sons-in-law.
Maybe one of my favorite features of traveling with others is the opportunity it affords me to learn something new about Mark. Other people ask him questions I haven’t thought of, and quite frequently his response includes an opinion or insight I haven’t heard, or an experience from his childhood that is new to me. We’ve been married 33 years, so I find this a particularly delightful side benefit.
Take Advantage of Opportunities to Meet the Locals
Occasionally when it comes up that we are going to a certain place, someone will say, “Oh, you should meet so-and-so; you would really like them.” For many years, we tended not to take people up on the offer of an introduction and I have learned this is a mistake. On a previous trip with Terri to Provence we met some friends of hers who live in Paris, and had a perfectly enjoyable time together. The couple stayed with us in Provence for a few days this time and we saw them again in Paris and had an absolutely delightful time together. Their insight to the culture and their city made our experience so much richer. And getting to know them a bit more was delightful on a personal level, as well. I hope to have many more adventures with them in the future.
My sister in Milan gets together with friends often for dinner, and when we are there, they are kind enough to include us in their gatherings. We have met some truly wonderful people as a result. Her friends have been remarkably generous; one couple offered their beautiful flat near St. Moritz last year, and after she had mentioned it three times, Mark asked Gretchen (my sister) if it would be appropriate to accept their offer. When she said it would be fine, he did accept, and we went that weekend. Those three days resulted in one of our favorite memories ever… two stunning hikes, in the Swiss National Forest and across from Piz Bernina, a particularly tasty dinner involving fennel three ways, and discovering (to background music of Keith Jarrett’s Koln Concerts cranked up a bit) that a full moon was rising over the mountains opposite in a crystal clear night sky. It sounds a little silly, but another particularly satisfying memory from that trip was remembering to do the grocery shopping before we left. Dairy products in Switzerland are terrific, of course, but we have not found produce there to be as good.
The note-to-self from this trip regarding “locals” is that the manager of a rental home is probably a local. We had a delightful conversation with Sarah Kennet, the manager of the fabulous home we rented near Sablet (north of Avignon), and if we there are no actual “locals” where we are staying sometime in the future, I might just invite her equivalent for a glass of wine or a cup of coffee. In addition to being a delightful person, she was an excellent resource regarding all things Sablet and Vaucluse. The prettiest restaurant we visited was not a Bib Gourmand but was at the top of her list.
Stay in Apartments if Possible
Friends from college happened to be taking a sabbatical in Paris and we stayed in their tiny but pretty apartment in the 15th arrondisement, off the beaten tourist track. We experienced a new side of the city as a result. If we are staying in one place in Europe for more than about three days, we usually rent an apartment through vrbo.com or homeaway.com. Popping down to the corner for the morning baguette and/or croissants and shopping daily at the vegetable and fruit stands for the ingredients for that night’s dinner (or picking up one of those fantastic roast chickens) give those who enjoy cooking the opportunity to interact a bit with the neighbors, and be exposed to interesting varieties of produce, meat and fish that are not available at home. (Granted, if we lived in New York City or San Francisco, etc., this would be nothing new, but this midwesterner gets pretty excited about this concept.) The other great advantage of staying in an apartment is the ability to pack lighter – most accommodations have a washer and some have a dryer.
Do It Now
When an opportunity presents itself and you have the option to take it, do. Don’t save it until later. I learned this about 30 years ago in Cortina. We arrived on a stunning day with a gorgeous view, gorgeous weather, well before the existence of weather.com. Mark suggested skiing half the day, since we had arrived in the late morning, and I thought for some unknown reason that it would be better to just go the full day the next day. Of course the next day the weather turned and I still haven’t seen the beautiful view I had the opportunity to see that day.
Bib Gourmand is Your Friend
We discovered the Michelin Red Guide (to restaurants in France) many years ago, and our favorite feature then, as now, is the Bib Gourmand designation – good food at moderate prices. It’s amazingly reliable and we have planned entire trips around these gems. Not many years ago there were few Bib Gourmand restaurants in Paris, but this year we were happy to discover Michelin has published an entire book of Bib Gourmands in France, and there are now a plethora of them to choose from in Paris. The interior of the restaurants is quite varied, as is the cuisine (our last evening in Paris was at a Flemish restaurant), but the common factor is a chef who cares a great deal about food, and its presentation, and cares enough about the ambience to make for a pleasant atmosphere in which to enjoy that wonderful food. The wine lists in these restaurants frequently match the concept, as well – good wine at moderate prices – and although Mark knows enough about wine to make good choices, we have asked for and taken the recommendations of the staff with good results.
Pace Yourself
I think the balance we maintained on this trip of time spent sitting and chatting with friends or family, frequently over a meal, and times spent exploring Paris or the Vaucluse (the area of Provence we were in) was pretty great. There were plenty of options for activity but rather than the activities being the goal in themselves, they were the vehicle for more time with friends or family. That slight shift in paradigm was significant.
Eat Well Without Breaking the Bank
We are finally at the stage of life where we can afford very nice restaurants, but we get much greater pleasure out of dining out at the Bib Gourmands and picking up sandwiches or cheese, salami and greens, fruit, and a bottle of wine at the local markets and having what is essentially an indoor (or outdoor, if the occasion presents itself) picnic. There’s something very satisfying about opening sacks or pulling this and that out of the fridge and spreading it all out, or dressing some greens or maybe preparing a simple pasta. And of course since Mark is such a good cook, we love to support any efforts he cares to make in that department, which happily for us is often. Very good olive oil, garlic, onions and herbs are readily available in France and Italy so it’s very easy to make a more than passable meal.
It’s an Adventure, Not a Problem
When things happen that weren’t in the plan, I’ve learned to choose to see it as part of the adventure. We prepare the best we can for the unexpected (carry an umbrella in Paris in the spring, take more than one credit card and be prepared with cash since Europe now uses credit cards with a chip instead of a strip, Icebreaker carries amazing products for packing small but staying warm, get rid of the car as soon as possible on the outskirts of a big city and take the metro the rest of the way, leave an hour earlier than you think you need to for the airport) but otherwise, we assume things will come up that we didn’t expect and if we come out on the other side of the experience having learned something, that’s a good thing.
Keep a Diary or Journal
I’ve tried over the years to keep notes or a diary of our trips and now that my memory isn’t quite as sharp as it used to be, I’m so thrilled to have even cryptic lists of the activities of the day and/or an expenses list. I also required my daughters to keep journals and coming across the girls’ journals from time to time over the years has brought great joy. They’ve both moved out now, and taken their journals with them, but every now and then they report coming across them themselves and have told me they are glad I was so adamant about that. Katharine (our younger daughter) conducted weekly adventure camps for a small group of boys one summer and she had them write notes at the end of each day and then start the next morning using those notes to write a journal entry. Brilliant.



